Blueberry All Season Collection includes 1 of each Duke, Blueray, Nelson, and Elliot. We reserve the right to substitute with like variety.
Duke: Very early ripening, prior to Spartan. A vigorous upright bush with consistently high yields. It is the most widely planted early ripening high bush variety. It blooms later than other varieties but ripens early which protects the fruit from late spring frost. The medium sized fruit has good color and firmness and grows in open clusters which makes harvesting easier.
Blueray: An early mid-season berry. It ripens a few days ahead of Bluecrop. The fruit is very large and firm, but softens quickly which limits shipping value. It produces an aromatic flavor good for pies and jam. The clusters are lare and very tight. The bush is very vigorous and productive. This berry is popular for the u-pick trade, but doesn't machine harvest well. Similar to Bluecrop but sweeter.
Nelson: The Nelson was related by USDA in 1989. It ripens late mid season. The fruit is large, firm, light blue, has good flavor and scar. The bush is vigorous, upright, and is suitable for commercial and pick-your-own harvest. Yields have been high in test planting at Grand Junction, Michigan.
Elliot: This late season berry ripens two weeks after Jersey. The fruit is medium size, firm light blue and has good flavor great for pies or jams. The bush is vigorous, upright, winter hardy and productive. It is suitable for mechanical harvesting.
2 year old bare root plants
The blueberry is a highly specialized crop. It has exacting soil and climatic needs. Its cultural requirements differ from other fruits. The initial cost of establishing a planting is high, and the first full crops occur 5 to 7 years after planting. No crop is picked for the first 2 years. In the third year, 400 to 800 lbs. per acre. Full crops of 2 to 3 tons per acre can occur as early as the 5th year and should be expected by the 8th year.
Blueberry grows best in sites where most other crops fall. They perform best on loosely textured soils-mixture of sand and peat are best. Choose very acid soils ranging from 5.0 to 5.5. Avoid soils testing higher than pH 5.5 for commercial planting. Constant but moderate soil moisture is needed by the blueberry. Best soils are those where the water table remains withing 14"to 22" below the surface. Good surface drainage is very important since blueberry roots need plenty of aeration. Water remaining on the surface for more than a day during any part of the growing season is harmful to roots.
They newly cleared land is best for planting since it usually contains more organic matter. Thoroughly work the soil for at least 2 years proceeding planting to subdue weeds and grasses. Test the pH of your soil, ideal pH should be between 5.0 and 5.5 if soil test is below 4.5 pH and lime. If the soil test is above 5.5 Ph add elemental sulfur to reduce the pH.
When planting use 2 to 3 year old plants. Avoid plants older than 3 years of commercial planting.
Plant early in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Space plants 4' apart in rows of 10' apart. Set plants at the same depth as grown in the nursery. Mix a shovelful of acid peat with the soil in each planting hole when setting in sandy soils low in organic matter. Remove fruit buds, either before or soon after setting the plants. Cultivated berries are self-fertile. However, if you want a long harvest season, plant 2 or 3 varieties ripening in succession. Experiments indicate berries may be larger and slightly earlier maturing when cross-pollination does occur.
Most blueberry roots are close to the soil surface. Cultivate no deeper than 2" to 3" and only often enough to keep weeds in check.
1st year wait until the first leaves reached full size, apply 1 TBS of 12-5-12 fertilizer within a circle 1 foot from the plant, repeat every 6 weeks until mid-summer.
2nd year apply 2 TBS increase the circle until 1 1/2 feet from the plant before new growth begins in the spring.
3rd year apply 1 cup when new growth begins in the spring.
CAUTION - BLUEBERRIES CAN BE DAMAGED BY EXCESS FERTILIZER ALLOW FOR RAIN OR IRRIGATION BETWEEN APPLICATIONS.
Blueberry plants need annual pruning. Remove the small, spindly growth near the base of the plant. This will promote an upright bush and keep fruit away from the ground. Prune to remove dead and injured branches close to the ground, spindly, bushy twigs on mature branches, and old stems or parts low in vigor. Blueberry bushes which are pruned moderately each year produce larger berries and tend to make the fruit ripen faster. Prune during dormancy, after the leaves have dropped in the fall, and during winter until buds swell in the spring. Use pine or oak sawdust that has been aged for 2 years for mulch.
Don't make cuts unless the weather is cooperated. One of the biggest dangers when pruning is leaving the plants susceptible to winter injury. Many times, we are tempted to prune during those midwinter warm-up days, but it is best to wait until weather is more likely to remain moderate. Pruning can reduce fruit tree cold tolerance, making them more susceptible to cold injury for a week or more following the process. If we prune during a 60-degree warm-up in January, by then is followed by near zero temperature a few days later we can see the severe injury to plants during the warm spell. Wet weather can also lead to disease if the weather is warm when pruning, insects activity will increase along with a better chance that pests can gain access via pruning cuts.
Sam's Tip:
3 Things Needed to Grow Blueberries Well
With all three things your blueberries will grow like weeds. If you don't have all three, work is harder.
