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Bristol Black Raspberry - Summer

SKU

RASP-BRISTOL

Out of stock

Quantity	Price
1-24	$8.00
25-99	$6.75
100 +	$4.60

Overview

Recent genetic research on black raspberries has shown that the genetic fingerprints are identical for Bristol and Munger; in other words they are the same. In Eastern US we have always called it Bristol and on West coast they have called it Munger. Munger was released 35 years before Bristol but no one knows when the mix-up occurred. This medium-large berry is firm, of good flavor and glossy skin. It is a good yielder, somewhat more susceptible to anthracnose than other varieties, but tolerant to powdery mildew.

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Summer Red Raspberries: If you had room for only one type of fruit, choose Red Raspberries!

One of the easiest fruits to grow.

The plants usually produce one big crop by the third year of planting. They blossom late, so spring frosts never ruin the crop. They need little care, and best of all they are easy to pick without much bending.

Raspberry & Blackberries

Both members of the genus Rubus, are collectively known as brambles. All brambles have a perennial root system which produces canes that are either biennial (grow for 2 years) or annual. During the first growing year, the canes are vegetative and are known as primocanes. In the second growing season, the canes become reproductive and bear fruit. Following fruiting, these 2-year-old canes, now called floricanes, die. At the same time, the bramble plant is also producing new primocanes. Under good care, the plant will normally grow and bear fruit for ten years.

The planting site should receive full sun and have good air drainage. Brambles should not be grown in an area in which tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, peppers or other crops susceptible to Verticillium wilt have been grown in the past 3-4 years. To avoid getting diseases from wild bramble roots cannot tolerate a water saturated soil condition. Even areas that pond after it rains should be avoided. You should prepare your bramble site at least one year prior to planting. Work to build up organic matter and eliminate perennial weeds. A pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is desirable and the pH should not be below 5.5 or above 7 as serious problems will arise. Contact a fertilizer supplier or your County Extension Office for testing procedures and to determine the best way to amend your soil.

Advantages of raised beds.

Medium to heavy soils often lack the proper drainage needed to successfully grow brambles. As Phytophthora Root Rot, a soil borne fungus is commonly associated with poorly drained locations. Raised beds can be a positive cultural step for control of the disease. Results of experiments show an 87% increase in yields on raised bramble beds can be a positive cultural step for control of the disease. Results of experiments show an 87% increase in yields on raised bramble beds. Raised bed production has long been considered an important cultural method for improving soil drainage. Even efforts for an 8-10" bed will be worth the investment. Research has shown, raised beds are an important step for increasing yields in Phytophthora susceptible bramble varieties.

Brambles should be planted on deep, well-drained soils. They can be grown on sandy soils if irrigated. Ninety percent of the bramble root system is in the top 20 inches of the soil-so proper fertilizer and an ample supply of water is important. Set your plants in trenches large enough to contain the roots without crowding. Separate the roots in half and spread out on both sides of the cane. Set all brambles one inch deeper than they were in the nursery. You can determine the proper depth by the dark brown color line on the cane.

Summer Red

Plant 1' to 2' apart. CUT CANE OFF AT GROUND LEVEL AT THE TIME OF PLANTING. Entire planting is cut back at ground level each fall or winter after plants are completely dormant and before any growth starts in the spring. Allow plants to sucker and keep rows about 18" wide. The roots should only be covered with approximately 2" of soil. Be sure to press dirt firmly about the roots and water well to prevent air pockets. If the weather is dry, put on a light straw mulch. If there are any wild brambles growing around or near your new planting, they should be dug up and destroyed to prevent the possibility of their carrying diseases.

Fall Bearing / Everbearing / Primocane

Plant 2' to 3' apart. CUT CANE OFF AT GROUND LEVEL AT THE TIME OF PLANTING. Entire planting is cut back at ground level each fall or winter after plants are completely dormant and before any growth starts in the spring. Allow plants to sucker and keep rows about 18" wide. The roots should only be covered with approximately 2" of soil. Be sure to press dirt firmly around the roots to prevent air pockets. If there are any wild brambles growing around or near your new planting, they should be dug up and destroyed to prevent the possibility of their carrying diseases.

Black & Purple Raspberry

Floricane: should be planted 24" to 30" apart. CUT THE CANES AT THE GROUND LEBEL AT TIME OF PLANTING. The roots should only be covered with approximately 2" of soil. Any wild brambles growing around or near your new plants should be dug up and destroyed to prevent the possibility of carrying disease. Prune off the top 3" to 4" of the new shoots when they are about 24" high for BLACK and 30" for PURPLE. This topping should be done several times during the season. Remove the fruiting canes immediately after harvest. Carry from the field and burn to minimize disease problems.

Apply 3-5 days after planting, use 1 cup per 10 feet of row, spread evenly with a 12" circle around the plant but no closer than 6" from the cane.

2nd year apply 1/2 cup per 10 feet row in the spring when new growth starts and again after harvest.

3rd year apply 3/4 cup per 10 feet of row in the spring when new growth starts and again after harvest.

Ample amounts of water are needed for a healthy bramble planting, but never standing water. Newly planted plants should be watered well. Producing fields need up to two inches of water per week. This is especially true during fruit development and up to harvest.

The use of mulch can help maintain and moderate fluctuations in available moisture but may increase your chances of developing root disease. Therefore, we do not recommend using mulch after the first year.

Black/Purple Summer Bearing Raspberries:

When Black Raspberry Primocanes (1st-year growth) reach about 24 inches, pinch them to stimulate lateral branching.

When PURPLE Rasberry Primocanes (1st-year growth) reach about 30 inches, pinch them to stimulate lateral branching.

At least 4" of the top should be removed during pinching. This may need to be done multiple times during the growing season as canes grow at different rates. The laterals should be supported by trellis wires in early fall as snow tends to break them off the main cane. In early spring prune any dead or damaged canes and shorten the laterals to pencil diamter to maintain berry size. This usually leaves about 6-10" growth. Very small spindly laterals, as well as any laterals close to the soil surface should be removed. Immediately after fruiting, cut floricanes at ground level and burn, If this is done on an annual basis you will keep your plants from overcrowding which can lead to less fruit production and disease issues.

Fall Everbearing/Primocane Bearing Raspberries:

To prune Primocane bearing raspberries for a single, late-season crop simply cut them back to the ground each year in late winter or early spring. It is important to cut canes as close to the ground as possible so that enw buds will break from below the soil surface. If canes are not cut low enough, fruiting laterals may form on any remaining cane portion. these fruiting laterals may form on any remaining cane portion. These fruiting laterals are not healthy and are entry sites for insects and disease. While these varieties can produce fruit twice a year, July and again in the fall the small July crop does not justify the added labor involved.

Where good sanitation is used (old fruited and infected canes are removed from the field). Anthracnose may not be a problem, especially on red raspberries. Where cane diseases are a problem, primarily black and purple raspberries,

Lime sulfur is very important. Lime sulfur is recommended for use on brambles as a delayed-dormant application in early spring (when buds show 1/4-inch green), it can label. If applied later in the season (after 1/4-inch green), it can cause severe damage to leaves and young canes. Lime sulfur is recommended for control of the cane-infecting fungi (anthracnose, cane blight, and spur blight).

The delayed dormant application in spring is intended to eliminate or reduce the overwintering inoculums for these diseases on canes. Lime sulfur has a bad smell (rotten eggs) so there can be a problem spraying it around your neighbors. In addition, lime sulfur is very caustic. It is harmful to machine parts, paint (especially on cars) and sprayers. Special care should be taken to avoid drift and proper protective clothing should be worn by the applicator.

	Berry Variety	Fruiting Season	Flavor	Berry Size	Phytophthora Resistance	Zones
Summer Red	Boyne	1	Good	M	4	3-7
Summer Red	Canby	1	Very Good	M-L	2	4-8
Summer Red	Encore	4	Very Good	M-L	2	4-7
Summer Red	Killarney	2	Good	M-L	1	4-7
Summer Red	K81-6	3	Very Good	VL	Unknown	4-8
Summer Red	Nova	3	Excellent	M-L	2	3-8
Summer Red	Prelude	1	Excellent	L	1	4-8
Fall Red	Caroline	2	Excellent	VL	2	4-7
Fall Red	Crimson Night	3	Excellent	M-L	1	4-8
Fall Red	Heritage	4	Very Good	M	3	4-8
Fall Red	Joan J	1	Very Good	L	Unknown	4-8
Fall Red	Nantahala	4	Excellent	L	Unknown	6-10
Fall Red	Polana	1	Very Good	L	Unknown	3-8
Black	Bristol	1	Very Good	M	1	5-8
Black	Jewel	2	Good	VL	1	5-8
Black	Mac Black	3	Good	L	2	5-8
Purple	Royalty	2	Very Good	VL	2	4-8
Purple	Brandywine	2	Good	L	2	4-8
Yellow	Anne (Fall)	2	Excellent	L	1	4-7
Yellow	Fall Gold (Fall)	3	Excellent	M-L	3	4-8
Yellow	Double Gold (Fall)	3	Excellent	M	1	5-8

Fruiting Season: 1 = Earliest, 4 = Latest

Berry Size: S = Small, M = Medium, L = Large, VL = Very Large

Phytophthora Resistance: 1 = Most, 5 = Least

Fruiting Season: 1= Earliest, 4 = Latest

Berry Size: S = Small, M = Medium, L = Large, VL = Very Large

Phytophthora Resistance: 1 = Most, 5 = Latest

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Fruit	Planting Distance (1)	Planting Distance (1)	Interval from Planting to Fruiting	Full Production	Life of Plants	Height of Mature Plants	Est. Annual Yield
	Between Rows (ft)	Between Plants (1)	Years	Years	Years	Feet	Per Plant
Raspberries - Summer	6-8	1-2	1	3	8-15	4-5	1 1/2 qts
Raspberries - black / purple	6-8	24"-30"	1	3	8-10	4-5	1 qt.
Raspberries - Everbearing	8	2-3	1/2	2	8-15	4-5	1 qt.

Bristol Black Raspberry - Summer

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