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Mid Season, Very Large Berry, Resistant to Red Stele, Verticillium, Leaf Spot and Leaf Scorch
(US 4419 x MDVS 3184)
Best In Zones 4 - 8
Don't Forget Your Accessories
32 pages of practical advice.
- SELECTING YOUR BEST BERRIES
- HOW TO PLANT
- AND MORE
- Strong, lightweight steel handle adjusts from 18" to 32" for extra reach
- Head is fully heat- treated for enhanced durability
From planting to picking, everything you need to know to grow your own fresh fruits and nuts.
Learn how to create edible landscapes with blackberries, blueberries, gooseberries, grapes, raspberries, strawberries and See More Details
This publication by B.R. Smith, D.L. Mahr, P.S. McManus, and T.R. Roper describes how to plant, tend and harvest strawberries for bountiful production.See More Details
56" Long - A Real Back Saver!
Glide 'N Groom Hoe -- A real back saver! Used in a push-pull motion to cut weeds just below the surface without disturbing See More Details
World's Best Hoe! Drop Forged Steel that will last a lifetime! This Swan Hoe is the finest cultivation hoe, and it's the one to choose for the most difficult, intractable weeds. The unique neck and blade shape permit accurate work close to plant See More Details
Includes 50 Everbearing Strawberry Plants
See details for more info and to view accessories.See More Details
A great way to minimize transplant shock and give your new plants a head start.
Available in 1 oz, 4 oz, 8 oz or 16 oz quantities.See More Details
This guide is intended as a comprehensive resource for both novice and experienced strawberry growers in northeastern North America. It provides information on all aspects of strawberry culture for the Midwestern and northeastern United States and eastern CanadaSee More Details
A hands-on guide to growing berries, brambles, and vine fruit in the home garden, by Stella Otto. Other chapters include: Strawberries, Rhubarb, Blueberries, Lingonberries, Currant and Gooseberries, Grapes, and Kiwifruit. Excellent resource for the backyard gardener.See More Details
Most videos are written and produced by Indiana Berry & Plant Co. If you would like to view all of our videos, please visit our Video Library.
Selecting a planting site
S trawberries can be grown in most soil types; however a good well drained loam soil will consistently produce a better crop. Select an area that will receive full sun most of the day. Avoid shaded areas and any place where water will stand after a rain as standing water can greatly increase the chances for disease. Also avid areas prone to spring frost. Do not grow strawberries for five or more consecutive years on the same site without some type of crop rotation. Do not plant strawberries in areas where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant have been grown within the past four years. These vegetables carry the root rot fungus Verticillium, which also attacks strawberries. In addition, do not plant strawberries into recently plowed grass areas which can lead to devastating weed problems and damage by white grubs, a common turf pest that deeds on strawberry roots. Cultivate the soil several times 2 weeks prior to planting to eliminate weeds. Each time you do this you will eliminate many freshly germinated weeds. Plant too deep will smother and die; plants too high will dry out. Spread the roots and carefully firm the soil around the roots leaving no air pockets. If soil is dry, pour a pint of water around each plant.
June Bearers should be planted 3 1/2 - 4 in between the row and 18" -24" in between each plant.
DO NOT FERTILIZE AT THE TIME OF PLANTING
You should see new green growth in 7-10 days.
June Bearers - Remove flowers the first year to eliminate fruiting. This will encourage more runners the first year.
Once runners begin to from make sure the new plant on the end is kept in contact with the soil in order for roots to grow. Place the new plants that form approximately 6'' apart in the rows. Crowding will produce small fruit so do not allow your planting to overpopulate and form a solid bed. In the fall, mulch with straw after the third evening of hard frost or freeze.
June Beaers in traditional matted row culture.
1st year care - Set plants 1 to 2 feet apart within the row
The objective the first year is to establish a good row of plants. Approximately 30 days after planting the plant will produce flowers. these flowers should be pinched or cut off. Do not pull them off. Removing the flowers prohibits the plants from fruiting and as a result, encourages more runners earlier in the season - setting the stage for a higher yielding crop the second year. These runners need to be pulled into the row and then they "peg" or grow roots and become new plants. To properly peg a new plant you may have to help it by digging through the straw mulch and press the runner tip into the ground. The runner will only root when it comes in contact with the soil. These new plants are what will produce fruit next year. .You should try to place a new plant every 6" in every direction in a matted row that is 12 to 18 inches wide. Allowing plants to be closer than 6" will crowd the plants which will result in smaller fruit. Remove all new runners that form after mid-August as these will not have time to peg and produce a good plant.
DO NOT ALLOWED YOUR BED TO OVER POPULATE. Keep weeds under control. Unfortunately, the best ways to do this is by hand and hoe. In the late fall, after 3 hard frosts or a hard freeze, you should cover your planting with a straw mulch. This is typically around Thanksgiving in northern Indiana. This protects the plants from extreme winter cold as well as moderating the temperature to stabilize the plants environment. Mulch the plants by shaking the straw evenly over the row until you can no loner see any of the green of the plant through the covering of straw.
Second Year - 1st Fruiting Year - Remove the straw mulch in early spring *when growth starts) DO NOT ALLOW PLANTS TO TURN YELLOW UNDER THE STRAW. Remove the straw by parting it slightly allowing for a narrow row 12 to 18 inches wide to grow up through the mulch. Keeping the parted straw up against the narrow row ill allow the fruit to sit on the straw bed while ripening.
This will create a barrier to protect the fruit from splashing dirt. This is important as many of the fruit rots come from the soil. The thick straw mulch between rows will also help in weed control. DO NOT APPLY ANY FERTILIZER IN THE SPRING. as it will soften the fruit.
Spring frost can often kill the blossoms, Even a light frost can have a devastating effect on yield. Remember to cover or protect your patch in some way just as you might sensitive flowers or tomato plants. Small green fruit are seldom damaged by frosts. Keep the planting well watered (1" per week) while the crop is maturing.
As berries ripen, keep them picked. Allowing over ripe fruit to remain in the patch can attract beetles that will become a nuisance. Go over the patch every 2 to 3 days picking the fruit at maximum ripeness. It is normal for berry size to decrease as the season progresses. The later fruit is smaller but the flavor is usually great and these make great jam and freezer berries.
A crucial step in maintaining a productive berry patch is renovating. This is a 3 step process performed each year as soon after havest as possible that rejuvenates your planting and is essential if you want to have a long lived productive patch.
Step 1: Set the mover blade on your lawn mower at a setting that will remove the leaves from the strawberry plant but won't damage the crowns. Trimming off the old leaves will decrease the disease problems for the rest of the summer. If this step is delayed and runners begin to grow, skip this step. Waiting too mow off the leaves will damage next year's yield.
Step 2: Lightly fertilize your patch with a balanced 12-12-12 fertilizer at 2 lbs. per square feet.
Step 3: Till between the rows narrowing down the row to 10 to 12 inches. This is very hard for many people as they think they are destroying their patch. Thinning or narrowing the row will keep your plants healthy and productive by allowing more sunlight and airflow throughout the row.
After renovation, keep your planting free of weeds and mulch with straw in the fall. Repeat each year for many years of great strawberries. Once you see a significant decrease in yield from one year to the next it is time to replant. For some people this is every 3 years but for others it can be every 5 to 7 years.
"The biggest weed in many strawberry field is the strawberry plant itself. Overcrowding of fruiting beds is often a serious problem. It will decrease berry size, increase disease problems, and make picking more difficult. I recommend narrow fruiting rows (beds) 10-16 inches wide, and plants should be no closer to each other than 6 inches in any direction. Most of your big high quality fruit will come from the outside 4 inches of your bed."
"Heavier straw mulch can protect your strawberry plants! A heavier than normally recommended fall application of straw mulch can protect your strawberries in the harshest winters. It will trap more snow to create insulation and makes a great weed control if pulled away from the top of the plant in the spring and completely covering the row middle. The think straw mulch may reduce or eliminate the need for herbicides."
We are dedicated to shipping your plants the fastest, most economical way possible. It is important that your plants not sit in a warehouse over a week-end. Orders shipping to western states are typically shipped on Mondays for Friday delivery. Indiana orders are typically shipped on Thursdays for Friday delivery. Remaining states are shipped on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Estimate Your Shipping Charges
We currently ship within the U.S. using UPS Ground, 3-Day Select, 2-Day or Next Day Air. For UPS ground service, the minimum shipping charge is $10.00.
Expedited Shipping: Unless you have a specific need to ship quickly, it is not necessary to choose expedited shipping. The majority of our plant orders ship UPS Ground or Priority Mail and arrive by the end of the week they are shipped in terrific shape, ready for planting.
Special Note for Alaska: All Alaska orders are shipped Priority Mail. Shipping cost depends on number of boxes and total weight, which we do not know until your order is packed. Therefore, your credit card will be charged two different times. Once at time of order for merchandise only and again at time of shipping for shipping costs only. If you want to be notified with the shipping cost prior to your card being charged please make a note in the comments section. Keep in mind this will delay your shipment if we are unable to reach you.
|Order Value||Ground||Expedited (3-Day, 2-Day, or Next Day)|
|$25.00 or less||$10.00||Call for pricing|
|$25.01 - $50.00||$13.95|
|$50.01 - $75.00||$15.95|
|$75.01 - $100.00||$18.95|
|$100.01 - $150.00||$20.95|
|$150.01 - $200.00||$22.95|