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Archer Strawberry

Plants » Strawberries » June Bearers

Archer Strawberry

Quantity Price
25 $20.750
50 $28.000
100 $43.000
250 $74.500
500 $110.000
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Archer its the sweet spot for local growers who sell in farmers markets, u-pick sites and roadside stands. Archer holds its large size through multiple harvests for two to three weeksThe cold-hardy variety is tough enough to withstand winters, making it suitable for growing in diverse climates throughout New York as well as in places like Michigan, Minnesota and along the Mid-Atlantic from Maryland into the Northeast. Archer may be the largest strawberry ever released at Cornell's NYSAES in Geneva, New York. 

Click on "Let's Get Started" for information on how to grow strawberries. 
Patent pending (NYUS1786 Lateglow x Jewel x L'Amour)
Zone Map Best In Zones 4 - 8

Don't Forget Your Accessories

Booklet-Grow the Best Strawberries


32 pages of practical advice.
Topics Include

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Price: $3.95



  • Strong, lightweight steel handle adjusts from 18" to 32" for extra reach 
  • Head is fully heat- treated for enhanced durability 
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Price: $14.95

Fertilizer - Strawberry - 4# bag


Based on our experience this is just the right formula for strawberries. 
12-12-12 See More Details

Price: $11.75

Fruit Gardener's Bible


From planting to picking, everything you need to know to grow your own fresh fruits and nuts.
Learn how to create edible landscapes with blackberries, blueberries, gooseberries, grapes, raspberries, strawberries and See More Details

Price: $25.95

Growing Strawberries in Wisconsin


This publication by B.R. Smith, D.L. Mahr, P.S. McManus, and T.R. Roper describes how to plant, tend and harvest strawberries for bountiful production.See More Details

Price: $7.00

Hoe - DeWit Dutch Diamond Push/Pull Hoe


* Features 4 very sharp forged edges

*Designed to push and pull while cutting weeds just below the surface
*Handle made of European ash 
*No chopping 
Dimensions: Head: 2"L x 8" W  Total: 60"L   Weight: 3.5 Lbs 
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Price: $73.99

Hoe - DeWit Dutch half Moon Hoe


  • Our halfmoon pull hoe is an old, traditional Dutch hoe
  • Designed for cutting weeds and cultivating just below the surface
  • The very sharp forged edges make it possible to easily pull weeds at the soil surface
  • Dimensions: Head: 2"L x 6.25" W   Total: 72" L    Weight: 3.5 lbs
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Price: $78.99

A great way to minimize transplant shock and give your new plants a head start.
Available in 1 oz, 4 oz, 8 oz or 16 oz quantities.See More Details

Quantity Price
1 $1.950
4 $3.500
8 $6.400
16 $10.000
Select a quantity:

Video Instructions

Most videos are written and produced by Indiana Berry & Plant Co. If you would like to view all of our videos, please visit our Video Library.

Strawberry Runners
Don't let your strawberry patch become overgrown.
Mulching Strawberries
Mulching Strawberries
Checking for Winter Damage
Planting Strawberries
Frost Damage
Why Buy From Indiana Berry
June-bearing varieties flourish in the spring and produce one crop lasting about 2-4 weeks. They are planted the first year and produce a full crop the second year. If properly cared for, can be productive for 3-7 years. 
Selecting a Planting Site
Strawberries can be grown in most soil types; however, a good well-drained loam soil will consistently produce a better crop. Select an area that will receive full sun most of the day. Avoid shaded areas and any place where water will stand after a rain as standing water can greatly increase frosts. Do not grow strawberries for five or more consecutive years on the same site without some type of crop rotation. Do not plant strawberries in areas where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant have been grown within the past for years. These vegetables carry the root rot fungus Verticillium, which also attacks strawberries. In addition, do not plant strawberries into recently plowed grass sod areas which can lead to devastating weed problems and damage by white grubs, a common turf pest the feeds on strawberry roots. 
How to plant 
Plant Spacing: 18"-24" in between each plant 
31/2 - 4 ft in between rows. 
Cultivate the soil several times 2 weeks prior to planting to eliminate weeds. Each time you do this you will eliminate many freshly germinated weeds. It is best to plant strawberries as early in the spring as the soil is workable. Cold temperatures are unlikely to damage dormant plants. Typical time of planting times is from February to early April in the south, March, and April in the northern states. If you order plants by mail and received in before you were ready or weather conditions are not ideal, as long as you set the box on a cool dark place such as basement or garage they should be okay for 7-10 days. Plants will keep up to 4 weeks if kept at 35 degrees. The surface mold may appear but this will not harm the plants. Check moisture levels of the roots frequently. If the roots are dry, you will need to mist them but be careful not to over water them, as this can lead to mold problems. Plant on planting when weather is cloudy and cool to prevent roots from drying out. Remove most of the old leaves from each plant. Use a trowel to make a hole by pressing it back and tipping to both sides. Spread the roots carefully and firm the soil around the roots. Set the plants at the correct depth. Do not trim roots and do not bend roots to fit into the hole. The base of the crown should be at the level of the soil surface. Plants too deep will smother and die; plants too high will dry out. Spread the roots and carefully firm the soil around the roots leaving no air pockets. If the soil is dry, pour a pint of water around each plant. DO NOT FERTILIZE AT TIME OF PLANTING. You should see new green growth in 7-10 days.
June Bearers - 
remove flowers the first year to eliminate fruiting. This will encourage more runners the first year. 
Once runners begin to form make sure the new plant on the end is kept in contact with the soil in order for roots to grow. Place the new plants that form approximately 6" apart in the rows. Crowding will produce small fruit so do not allow your planting to overpopulate and form a solid bed. 
[Planting Illustration]
Proper planting method (A) and improper methods (B, C, D) for strawberry planting. At B the crown is too deep, at C the crown is too high and at D the roots are bend and remain near the surface. The time taken to get the roots all covered is critical. Plants will not live with roots exposed. 
Planting Illustration

June Bearers in Traditional
Matted Row Culture 
1st Year Care - Set Plants 1 to 2 Feet Apart Within The Row 
The objective the first year is to establish a good row of plants. Approximately 30 days after planting the plant will produce flowers. These flowers should be pinched or cut off. Do not pull them off. Removing the flowers prohibits the plats from fruiting and as a result, encourages more runners earlier in the season - setting the stage for a higher yielding crop the second year. These runners need to be pulled into the row and then they "peg" or grow roots and become new plants. To properly peg a new plant you may have to help it by digging through the straw mulch and press the runner tip into the ground. The runner will only root when it comes in contact with the soil. These new plants are what will produce fruit next year. You should try to place a new plant every 6" in every direction in a matted row that is 12 to 18 inches wide. Allowing plants to be closer than 6" will crowd the plants which will result in smaller fruit. Remove all new runners that from after mid-August as these will not have time to peg and produce a good plant. DO NOT ALLOW YOUR BED TO OVER POPULATE. Keep weeds under control. Unfortunately, the best way to do this is by hand and hoe. In the late fall, after 3 hard frosts or a hard freeze, you should cover your planting with a straw mulch. This is typically around Thanksgiving in northern Indiana. This protects the plants from extreme winter cold as well as moderating the temperature to stabilize the plant's environment. Mulch the plants by shaking the straw evenly over the row until you can no longer see any of the green of the plant through the covering of straw. 

Second Year - 1st Fruiting Year
Remove the straw mulch in early spring (when growth starts) DO NOT ALLOW PLANTS TO TURN YELLOW UNDER THE STRAW. Remove the straw by parting it slightly allowing for a narrow row 12 to 18 inches wide to grow up through the mulch. Keeping the parted straw up against the narrow row will allow the fruit to sit on a straw bed while ripening. This will create a barrier to protect the fruit from splashing dirt. This is important as many of the fruit rots come from the soil. The thick straw mulch between rows will also help in weed control.
DO NOT APPLY ANY FERTILIZER IN THE SPRING as it will soften the fruit. 
Spring frosts can often kill the blossoms, Even a light frost can have a devastating effect on yield. Remember to cover or protect your patch in some way just as you might sensitive flowers or tomato plants. Small green fruit is seldom damaged by frosts. Keep the planting well watered (1" per week) while the crop is maturing. 
As berries ripen, keep them picked. Allowing overripe fruit to remain in the patch can attract beetles that will become a nuisance. Go over the patch every 2 to 3 days picking the fruit at maximum ripeness. It is normal for berry size to decrease as the season progresses. The later fruit is smaller but the flavor is usually great and these make great jam and freezer berries. 

The first season after new growth starts(when runners start) side dress with 1 lb per 100 square feet.  In Mid-August side dress with 1 lb per 100 square feet.

2nd year and subsequent years after, broadcast with 2-3 lbs of fertilizer at renovation and in Mid-August side dress with 1 lb per 100 square feet.


How To Renovate
A crucial step in maintaining a productive berry patch is renovating. This is a 3 steps process performed each year as soon after harvest as possible that rejuvenates your planting and is essential if you want to have a long-lived productive patch.
Step 1: Set the mower blade on your lawn mower at a setting that will remove the leaves from the strawberry plant but won't damage the crowns. Trimming off the old leaves will decrease the disease problems for the rest of the summer. If this step is delayed and runners begin to grow, skip this step. Waiting too long to mow off the leaves will damage next year's yield. 
Step 2: Lightly fertilize your patch with a balanced 12-12-12 fertilizer at 2 lbs per 100 square feet. 
Step 3: Till between the rows narrowing down the row to 10 to 12 inches. This is very hard for many people as they think they are destroying their patch. Thinning or narrowing the row will keep your plants healthy and productive by allowing more sunlight and airflow throughout the row. 
After renovation, keep your planting free of weeds and mulch with straw in the fall. Repeat each year for many years of great strawberries. Once you see a significant decrease in yield from one year to the next it is time to replant. For some people this is every 3 years but for others, it can be every 5 to 7 years. 
Helful Info
Arkansas  -  Arizona  -  Colorado  -  Georgia  -  Illinois  -  Indiana  -  Iowa  -  Kansas  -  Kentucky  -  Maine  -  Massachusetts  -  Michigan  -  Minnesota  -  Missouri  -  Montana  -  Nebraska  -  New Hamshire  -  New Jersey  - 
New York  -  North Carolina  -  North Dakota  -  Ohio  -  Oklahoma  -  Oregon  -  Pennsylvania  -  South Carolina  -  Utah  - Virgina  -  Washington  -  Wisconsin  

Sam's Tips:

"The biggest weed in many strawberry field is the strawberry plant itself. Overcrowding of fruiting beds is often a serious problem. It will decrease berry size, increase disease problems, and make picking more difficult. I recommend narrow fruiting rows (beds) 10-16 inches wide, and plants should be no closer to each other than 6 inches in any direction. Most of your big high quality fruit will come from the outside 4 inches of your bed."

"Heavier straw mulch can protect your strawberry plants! A heavier than normally recommended fall application of straw mulch can protect your strawberries in the harshest winters. It will trap more snow to create insulation and makes a great weed control if pulled away from the top of the plant in the spring and completely covering the row middle. The think straw mulch may reduce or eliminate the need for herbicides."

Shipping Information

We are dedicated to shipping your plants the fastest, most economical way possible. It is important that your plants not sit in a warehouse over a week-end. Orders shipping to western states are typically shipped on Mondays for Friday delivery. Indiana orders are typically shipped on Thursdays for Friday delivery. Remaining states are shipped on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Estimate Your Shipping Charges

We currently ship within the U.S. using UPS Ground, 3-Day Select, 2-Day or Next Day Air. For UPS ground service, the minimum shipping charge is $10.00.

Expedited Shipping: Unless you have a specific need to ship quickly, it is not necessary to choose expedited shipping. The majority of our plant orders ship UPS Ground or Priority Mail and arrive by the end of the week they are shipped in terrific shape, ready for planting.

Special Note for Alaska: All Alaska orders are shipped Priority Mail. Shipping cost depends on number of boxes and total weight, which we do not know until your order is packed. Therefore, your credit card will be charged two different times. Once at time of order for merchandise only and again at time of shipping for shipping costs only. If you want to be notified with the shipping cost prior to your card being charged please make a note in the comments section. Keep in mind this will delay your shipment if we are unable to reach you.

Shipping Charges
Order Value Ground Expedited (3-Day, 2-Day, or Next Day)
$25.00 or less $10.00 Call for pricing
$25.01 - $50.00 $13.95  
$50.01 - $75.00 $15.95  
$75.01 - $100.00 $18.95  
$100.01 - $150.00 $22.95  
$150.01 - $185.00 $24.95  
$185.01+ 14%